Sailing, loving, living

By Lena in Stockholm

It's cold in Sweden (down to -20 C this week) but it's hurricane season in Vanuatu, Tropical Cyclone Jasmine missing Port Vila by just a tiny bit, we were lucky there. Space is on the hard (on land for storage for the season) and is actually for sale. The rest of the circumnavigation will be done as crew on another vessel. So if you know anyone who wants to have a beautiful and very seaworthy boat, check out the link below. It's ready to be sailed, just to turn the key or to raise the main and go - around the magical islands of Vanuatu, or over to Australia, Indian Ocean, Asia, New Zealand, all the hidden jewel islands of the Pacific, or why not sail her to Europe or across the Atlantic - she's up to it. 

Here you have full specifications and a price.

http://www.yachtdomain.com/list.php?dealer=yachtdomain&ToDo=show_details&de=102289

By Lena, end of November 2011

Flying to Stockholm from Vanuatu is not an easy business. One can fly to Australia, Fiji, or New Zealand. But I had no Australian visum, and I had already been to Fiji, so I booked a flight to Auckland. There, I spent 1 night, and flew to Stockholm via Hong Kong and Frankfurt, this part of the trip having 35 flight hours. I am afraid to think back to how many days the trip took... but it was surely the long way, as they say.

Arriving to New Zealand, I had two choices. I had been awake for about 48 hours, and quite buzzed from the airport beer and the stress. So: either go sleep for like 20 hours, or have a stiff drink, a shower, and hit the city. I chose the second alternative, and did Auckland by night, pubbing with my hostel buddies, and gpoing to Viaduct later on.

Yes, I was now a backpacker by definition - a sleeping bag, too much luggage, and even the mandatory dreadlock. The other three girls in the dorm were also travelling by themselves, so we stuck together and had fun. I must say that Base Auckland is the best hostel I have ever been too, and very inexpensive too. Very clean and comfy, at least at girls-only dorms. Then we went to the backpacker pub just next door, as the Base gave us free tickets for a glass of champagne each. In the bar, I got two tickets for 2 for 1 drinks, but I never needed them as the bartender was giving away shots and coctails (while doing some crazy dancing), also that night was the Free Pizza Night so several take-away boxes from the local pizzeria appeared and we dug in. Free food, free drinks, what can be better? Ah, the evening in Viaduct ended with me getting a free ride home, as a bicycle rikshaw was feeling sorry for my aching high-heeled feet and had lived in Sweden for a year so he thought it was great fun speaking Swedish with Kiwi accent while driving me home.

The day after, I was booked on a full day tour with Gray Line, before flying off at midnight. I think I did as much as most people do in one week - but in one day. Gray Line has air-conditioned buses, and serve food on board while the drive you all around the country, pointing out highlights and giving you the full history of NZ during the transport bit. The tour included the huge underground caves with absolutely beautiful stalactites, and a boat tour in the underground cave lake, in full darkness and the glow worms shining above like the starriest sky. Then, there was a sulphur spring spa, with hot pools to soak in. Then, it was time for the geothermal activity center with boiling mud pools and geysers. On the way there, we passed classical NZ landscapes with grazing sheep, and the hills that look like the hobbit village. I saw a fiersome Maori music and dance show, had a lesson in aborigenal weaving, some language lessons, and seen some enormous trees (2,5 meters or so in diameter). Of course, we passed wine and kiwi plantations, and a lot more. A well-spent day!

The day after, I was to spend 7 hours of transit in Hong Kong, so I decided to hit the city. The shops did not open until 10 or 10:30, and that was about the time when I had to go back to the airport, but I had some real Hong Kong food. The Michelin-star restaurant at the airport (that serves smoked geese and pigs) had to be given a miss, and similar smoked-geese places too, since I was almost late for the flight. However, the lovely Chinese couple (who of course did not speak a word of English) that sat beside me on the plane had some smoked goose neck with them, and it was absolutely lovely but extremely spicy, so I spent some good time indulging in the taste but agonizing over my burning mouth.

All in all, being in Hong Kong (especially after months of sailing South Pacific with its deserted islands and paradise-like nature) made me feel like a bug trapped in a huge 1990s arcade. Sounds, blinking and Asian wiriting everywhere, and everything goes so fast and you don't really understand the rules of the games but realise that if you also rush just enough (and push all buttons in the same time) you might just accomplish something.

Frankfurt airport was stunningly cold after the 25+C Hong Kong, and smelled distinctly of Sauercraut. People were paler, immaculately dressed, but all looked very angry and stressed, and every each one looked down into their smartphone or laptop. All magazines and wall posters advertize new electronic devices that guarantee you better connectivity and functionality, and are SURELY going to make you a MUCH happier person. Thinking back to Polynesia, I doubt that. Throw away a few appliances instead, that would be the more likely way to get happy.

Sweden... What can I say? The Giant Fridge. It's SO cold. And everyone is stressed, and has a very angry face expression (however, everyone is distinctly trying to look very self-important). And did I say it was cold? I am sitting inside writing this, but I have to have a jacket to keep me from shivering so much I cannot write anything, and my besocked feet are almost numb. How can people live like this, when there are so many better countries in the world? Warm, nice countries with coconut trees and friendly people? Oh well. I guess I will, too, get used to this again. I give myself 2 days - then I will also run around looking self-important, and saying that 9+C in November is extremely warm and should be enjoyed.

By Lena, end of November 2011

When you're sailing, you discover that one of the greatest things you encounter is not beautiful islands, dolphins or beaches. It's the sailing community. Sailors being good to sailors just because they're sailors. I can't write down all the times I helpt a yachtie or when I was helped by one, but's it's beautiful every time.

One example: me and Tobias arriving to Port Vila, stuck on the quarantine anchorage. The sailors on the boat next to us come over to say hi and we tell them we really wanted to go to the store because we miss fresh produce. Some time later, they come back - with a small package containing fresh chicken, ripe mangos, and two bottles of red wine. Can you imagine what this means when you've been on canned food diet for almost a week?

Waking up at the mooring near the boat yard, I have a lot of work to do, it's 06:00 in the morning but already hot mand humid, and I'm also dead tired. Breakfast: a cold can of beans, then start working on deck. Suddenly a dinghy appears. The captain and caretaker of the boat right beside comes up to say hello, with a big sweet juicy ripe papaya, straight from the fridge. I offer him some boat gear and money so he can keep an eye on my boat when I am away. He says he does not need anything, as his employers take good care of him, but he's happy to help me out and keep an eye on the boat. Lovely.

But it's not all sunshine stories and fun. Coming from the South Pacific, after dealing with happy people that always have a smile ready, and do not care about materialistic values, I guess I was too naive for Fiji and Vanuatu. It feels like a completely different part of the world there, mostly at Port Vila. The taxi drivers rip you off, people do not honour their word, I was ripped off by 4 people during 24 hours, and suddenly the world turned dark. A guy bought my surplus fuel and never turned up with the money, backstabbing both his buddy and me (I was left pennyless, though managing to get 50% of the money at last, which cost me a lot of time that I didn't have and a lot of frustration I could do without). But, I guess I will have to take the bad with the good...

When you are a long way from home and sailing, you are heavily dependent on someone to take care of the stuff back at home. Bills and papers do not pay or sort out themselves, and no authority is interested in scanning and mailing them to you, or sending them to P/R somewhere in South Pacific. Tomas was extremely lucky as his friend helped him with everything from finding a tenant to fixing things big and small, and that help is truly priceless. I had a bit less luck, as the person who promised to take care of my stuff when I was away (and receiving my appartment contract in return, eventually forever if I did not come back) was not as reliable. It's not very nice to find out that one has got two or three bill reminders (almost being blacklisted financially), or "reply within 10 days" authorities letters that are several months old, when you are far, far away. CSN and Swedish tax office are not forgiving if some paper is not sent to them within a reasonable amount of time, and that made life very hard for me. Also, the person started owing me money, which makes life difficult when you are away, especially sailing on a tiny budget, and had a hissy fit when I said I was coming home and needed a place to stay - sharing my appartment was suddenly not an option. So a word of advice to those planning to sail for a long time: find a good friend who is reliable, and will not "jump ship" after a few weeks when sorting out somebody else's mail becomes boring.

By Lena: end of November 2011

So finally I was there. Singlehandling. It was a delivering feeling of freedom, however I'm much too social to do it for a longer time. I moved the boat to the boat yard, and it all went fine though I got hit by a rain-and-squall area on the way there. I also did a beautiful maneuvre of fetching a mooring by myself without backing the boat, it was just a matter of having just the right heading and the right speed.

All the work that I had to do in the coming days was however too much for one person. A haulout and hurricane season storage require a bit of preparation, and I had a bit too little time for that. But I guess most of it is done now, to the price of early mornings and heaps of stress. Being on the boat alone was very weird though...

By Lena at Port Vila, Vanuatu

Tobias left today, I left him at the airport, waiting for his tiny plane that was several hours late. To wrap up his visit to South Pacific, he booked a night at a fancy hotel resourt with huge golf course, several pools, spa, bars and restaurants and jacuzzis and everything, and was extremely nice to treat me with all that. So right now, I am cleaner than ever, and massaged and am feeling like a brand new person. It was especially convinient as my back was killing me after retreiving the 40 meters of anchor chain + the anchor, several times, and rowing back and forth in the bay (the outboard won't work).

The boat is right now on a mooring near Yachting World. It's quite tempting to single-hand her to Australia and beyond, but the hurricane season is here so that would be close to madness (it takes more than a week to sail and that makes weather almost impossible to predict).

Most boats are stored "on the hard" (on land) during the hurricane season, as a cyclone can easily rip off moorings, send anchors dragging, and get loose boats and debris to smash up other boats and cause great damage. So I have booked hurricane season storage here, at the World's Happiest Island. The boat yard here seems very nice, they have hot showers, BBQ, free internet and everything else you need. The haul out is scheduled for Friday.

After the boat is out from the water, I cannot do any more sailing, so I will be flying to Sweden. The trip will take two and a half days and I will change flights in New Zealand (Auckland), Hong Kong, and Frankfurt. It took me a long time to get here, and my economy is suffering an all-time low, so I am taking this opportunity to go back to working within IT, and am very happy to be back to my old company, see the top of the page on Links. Also, as you can see on this site, the trip was not all about only living and sailing, and I will be happy to reunite with the man that followed me to the end of the world through two huge oceans in a little sailing boat. I miss him terribly and am very happy to get back to Stockholm soon!

We will sell the boat on Australian or NZ market, this to take care of the financial situation. But my circumnavigation is not over just because I am selling the boat! I will continue going West as part of a crew on another boat, sailing with friends, and as a delivery sailor. This, however, will be made in shorter trips, as I will be doing it during my vacations and free days from my work. Now, it's only the Indian Ocean left, and I will have circumnavigated the Earth!

By Lena at Port Vila

We left Fiji in a hurry as the officials required that we sailed off as they watched. Really, the clear-out procedure was to be done from Lautoka but we did not want to waste time going there, and also did not want to anchor in the industrial area in the harbour and row officials to our boat in the dinghy. So we had to pay an extra fee and a taxi for the officers to come to Port Denarau. But we saved a lot of time and hassle.

As we sailed off, we did the rest of preparations for the passage. The tropical cyclone thundered over the island but the skies were blue West of Fiji. Not for long.

It came to be a very shakey passage, with gusty winds from 20 to over 30 knots, a loty of rain and squalls, and steep waves of up to 4 meters height. But Tobias held on like a hero and we actually made a detour to the island of Tanna to watch the vulcano there. Finally, we dropped anchor in Port Vila.

Vanuatu is the world's happiest island according to research. They appear t have a culture that is quite different from the South Pacific islands that we have passed. The people look more African than Pacific, and wear clothes that remind of Africa. The country is known for the active volcanos, that are actually possible to visit up close. More dangerous things to name are: poisonous snakes, that are abundant here, malaria which is endemic to the country (we are eating funny malaria pills), and man-eating sharks that make swimming quite a gamble, so we shower on the transom. The diving is supposed to be spectacular, and the islands themselves are worth a lot of exploring.

The streets of Port Vila are very lively, and the city is quite civilized. We had a lunch in the Grand Hotel, air conditioned and flashy, and got some coupons to play the slot machines in the casino. Tobias had no luck but I actually gambled back the 10 AUD that the lunch costed! Now, a lot of work awaits as Tobias is to be signed off the boat (he's leaving for Sweden tomorrow).

By Lena in Vitu Levu, Fiji

We went off to Port Denarau, a trip that took about a day. The last night before it was spent in the local pub, trying to compete with the locals about who buys whom beer pitchers, so in the morning I was very tired. Tobias got seasick on the first day, however it usually stops directly and he's all right the rest of the trip. Myself, I helped him feed the fishes, but I think it was 99% hangover and the rest was pure sympathy. I have never been seasick on any boat. On my first one, the 27 ft Vega, it was often close to it, but Space has been very comfortable (of though it has a rounded bottom and fin keel!) so neither me nor Tomas had ever had any trouble. But there is a first time for everything, I guess.

Upon arriving to port Denarau, near the Nadi airport, we realized how different it is from the rest of the island. Here, tourism flourishes and big luxury hotels with bungalows are everywhere, as well as tourist shops and restaurants. Hard Rock cafe was just opposite our mooring! The shops are large and the choice of produce is immense. I must have looked like the tiny village girl coming to the big city, as I stared in awe at the things in the bakery and the supermarket. One gets used to the solitary little Pacific islands and forgets quickly how it is in the rest of the world.

Tobias had brought a gift to the boat - the same fine Amarone wine we drank when he sailed with us on the Vega in Gothenburg (yes, when we ran out of gas in the middle of Gota Alv, and got very much attention from the Coast Guard). So we spent the evening on the boat, having heaps of nice food from the supermarket, and drinking fine wine (you can't imagine how sick I am of the cheap Clos wine that we stashed up in Panama, it tastes like strawberry marmalade that has gone bad. Worse; it's all finished now so I had no wine at all.)

Today, we decided to explore Fiji while we can, and be as touristic as possible. We checked all activities and trips but almost none could be done on a Sunday. So we found a taxi driver who could get us to the places we wanted to go, and in the end it cost us much less and was more enjoyable.

The Vitu Levu island is quite mountanous, with a lot of islets and reefs outside (Fiji is not only the two islands you usually see on the map, it consists of over 300 big and small islands, and maybe a third of them are inhabited). We started the trip at the bottom of The Sleeping Giant, a huge mountain that looks like a fat man who is sleeping on his back and snoring. Then we went to the hot springs and mud pools, and got as dirty as clay statues, then swam around in the hot natural pool (the water coming out from the hot springs is about 70+ coconut oil massage from Fiji women, in a small hut, which we happily did. Such a luxury for a dirty and tired sailor! I have not had a hot bath since the Shelter Bay Marina in Panama - they had a cold and a hot pool free to use for the marina guests.

The next stop was a small Fijian village, where we got to participate in a Kava ceremony. In Tonga, there was no real ceremony, you just drank the kava and it was all. In Fiji, things are more complicated, and there is a ritual for drinking. Everyone sits on the floor, and the drink is prepared in front of you. Then, the coconut shell cups are passed around, and you have to clap your hands in a special way. The chief drinks first. The chief was not there, so the villagers elected Tobias to be the chief. I was second to drink. Then everyone had to drink in turns, three cups each in total, even the taxi driver. They told us about their village traditions, and asked me a lot about my trip through the world's seas.

Next stop was The Landing Point, where first people came to Fiji in 1500BC. After that, we went to a beach and did some horse riding. And now, we have found a place that has traditional Fiji dance, with fire show and knives. It does not start until a bit later, so I am enjoying an air-conditioned Internet room, very nice. Behind me, two Swedish women were surfing and chatting. There were four visitors to the Internet room in this little hotel in Fiji on the outskirts of the town, on the bach. And all were Swedish. What are the chances of that?

A cyclone is approaching the islands and will hit tomorrow and last for two days. The marina is very protected so we will stay there until Tuesday, and then go to Vanuatu.

By Lena at Suva, Fiji

We arrived to Suva on a Sunday, and had to stay on anchor outside of Royal Suva yacht Club to wait to be cleared in. On Monday, five officials arrived by water taxi (that we had to pay for) and did the greatest amount of paperwork I have ever encountered on my trip from Sweden to here. We had to account for everything from the mast's color and alloy materials to the life raft's specific model. The medical inspection report was very minute too; the inspector was competent enough to establish that there were no diseases or contamination risks, without even entering the boat. For all it's worth, we could have had a boat full with plague-infected refugees, nobody would have noticed a thing. All the paperwork cost a fortune though. 

To clear out is even more fun. The officials will not come to the boat; you have to go to the King's Warf, a glamorous name but in fact the exact opposite, as it is a big industrial harbour with thousands of dirty containers, huge lifts and tools, and a maze of workshop buildings. Somewhere there, the customs office is located in a little shack, and they would send you running up and down the stairs. The walls are tapered with posters of recent drug razzias and findings by the New Zealand and Australian customs at the airport and the post office. They really must have a lot to deal with, with the pills smuggled inside toys, baby bottles, make-up kits and electronic devices. The customs officers, with an all-important air about them, listened to Fiji music and made jokes as they worked in a very relaxed pace. 

There was work to be done. Tomas was signing off the boat to fly to Sweden, and Tobias, a friend who sailed with me in both Sweden (the first sail with Mare Liberum actually), and in Caribbean, is signing on to sail to Port Denarau and further on to Vanuatu. 

I had rented a car to drop off Tomas at the Nadi airport 180 km from Suva, as the taxis cost a great lot, and I also would pick up Tobias from the same place the same morning. I would drive Tobias to Suva, get jerry-cans with diesel, some big water bottles, the huge bag of laundry, and then we would go to the anchorage by dinghy and set off to Port Denarau, as a cyclone is rumoured to be approaching Fiji. But as all good plans, this failed. The night before Tomas would fly out, we were going from the marina to the boat by dinghy, but some idiot put a fishing net all over the marina's entrance so the motor got entangled and broke. 

We (mostly Tomas) rowed back, which took almost an hour. It was by now very late in the evening. We decided to row back with the luggage and start driving right away. But it was against the wind and the current and the waves, in the dark of the night, with different opinions on what the shortest way to the marina was, and it took probably the double of the first trip, leaving us wet, exhausted and very frustrated. 

The roads in Fiji are very bad, so the 180 km trip took about 4 hours, at night with stray animals, road kills all over the road, and sharp turns, on a road with holes and multiple reparations which made the trip very shaky and slow. I was afraid the car would fall apart. Oh, and did I mention that they drive on the wrong side of the road here? I have never driven a car on the left side, and it took a long time to get used to, especially the automatic clutch that had to be operated by the left hand, and the blinkers on the right. Damn! 

By the time we got to the airport, the sun was up. We slept on the parking space for two hours (I needed at least some rest; had to drive back the same morning, remember?) and Tomas boarded the plane with no more hassle as far as I know. He would land in Seoul a few hours later and get a pick up to a hotel and a warm bath. Me, I welcomed Tobias to Fiji and drove him to Suva, which took five hours or so. After the sign-in at the customs, we barely had time to come back to the Royal Suva Yacht Club, in order to fix a boat ride home, which they were nice enough to proved for almost no cost (otherwise, it costs like a taxi ride between Stockholm and Sollentuna). 

All in all, a crazy lot of hassle, which is slowly starting to subside by now. There is a guy who will try to fix the outboard, I got some high speed internet for the first time for ages (the internet in the marina costs a fortune and te access is sold per hour, which is about enough time to send one email and read another two, no kidding), and I've cleared us out for a trip to Port Denarau, located on the West side of the island. The cyclone is not going to hit Fiji, at least not this week, so we will stay there until Monday or Tuesday and head for Vanuatu from there. 

Fiji is a very interesting place otherwise, a frantic mix of South Pacific, India and China. Half of the locals have Indian roots (the curries here are almost as great as in India, and there is at least one Bollywood film in the movie theater!) The island is mountanous and covered with lush jungle, and there are a lot of friendly birds hopping around and "talking" non-stop.

I will try to report from Port Denarau before heading off to another 5 days at sea to Port Vila, cross fingers for no cyclones!

By Lena in Tonga

Yes, men wear skirts in Tonga. Even the police, they wear skirts as a part of the uniform. And the men make all the food here, women never cook. Anyway: We have arrived to Vavau in Tonga, to wait for the heavy rains to pass, and to enjoy their wonderous culture.

We have celebrated Halloween, and found out that hard rock and metal are very popular here. Also, there are a lot of transvestites, maybe a consequence of this skirt thing. Maybe they are not really transvestites at all, just guys dressed up for the night out. I don't know. But we had a great time at the local night club.

On Sunday, we attended a traditional Tongan feast in the village. The food was made in an Umu, it's an underground oven. They cook everything together, the Taro leaves with coconut and corned beef, the chicken, the fish, the roots and vegetables. Even the ice-cream. The only thing cooked outside of the Umu is the suckling pig, which is grilled over the open fire.

As a part of the festivity, they drink Kava. It's a slightly intoxicationg drink made of a root, very popular in Oceania. All sailing guides say that it looks like dirty water and tastes like it too, but I'd say it looks like diluted clay, and has a taste of clay and dried dust, of though with a bitterness that is almost pleasant. While drinking, the lips and the tongue become numb, and after drinking quite a lot onbe becomes relaxed and drowsy. I gave it a try and it worked. Some people mix it with whisky, we are yet to try that.

There are also many tatooing traditions in Oceania. I got a tatoo in a Tongan village, with a lot of symbols and Tongan details, very special. Now I cannot swim or sunbathefor a week  though, not so fun.

Our next stop is Fiji, we are leaving tomorrow after celebrating Tomas!

By Lena at Vavau, Tonga

The 180th longitude actually cuts through Fiji, but the time zones are irregular and on the trip between Niue and Tonga we passed the international date line.

That poses a lot of questions. We actually "lose" a day there - does that mean that I have to celebrate my birthday one day later from now and on? When we left Niue it was the 25th. We were sailing for two days. But in the log book, we arrive on the 28th. What does that say about our VMG? Maybe we should have been following UTC, or Swedish time, at all stages of the journey. Then it would not have happened. But would have been extremely impractical.

A dear friend's birthday is on the 27th of October, and of though we sometimes do not see each other for years, we always call each other to say happy birthday. As we left on the 25th, were still sailing on the 26th, but arrived on the 28th - when should I call her, and how do I figure out what time is in Moscow right now? Luckily, the long night watches allow for a lot of retrospection and thought. I got the time right and was talking to snowy Russia in the middle oif a warm Tongan night, on the satellite phone. Oh, the wonders of nature and tenchology.